Summer at Priest Lake

On the water

Priest Lake is big enough to feel empty even on a holiday weekend. The islands are the summer institution: Kalispell Island in particular, with its Forest Service campsites and sandy coves, fills up with boats by mid-morning. Bartoo, Eightmile and Fourmile Islands are smaller and quieter. The main lake is open to wakeboarding and water skiing; the Thoroughfare and Upper Priest Lake are not.

Paddling is best in the morning before the wind. The shoreline south of Cavanaugh Bay, the coves around Luby Bay, and the mouth of any creek are good places to start. Fishing means lake trout, kokanee and cutthroat; check Idaho Fish and Game for current limits and the bull trout release rule.

On the trails

The Selkirks come straight up off the east shore, and the trails are steep. Hunt Lake, Lookout Mountain and Chimney Rock are the classics: alpine lakes and granite, big views west across the lake. The west side is gentler: the Lakeshore Trail, the Hanna Flats and Roosevelt cedar groves, and the Beach Trail near Luby Bay.

Huckleberries ripen on the lower slopes in late July and work their way up through August. Locals do not share their spots and neither will we, but the general rule is that any sunny, open slope between 3,500 and 5,500 feet is worth a look.

Planning a week

Book early. Cabins and resort rooms at Priest Lake fill months ahead for July and August, and state park campsites open on a reservation window. Bring more sunscreen and fewer plans than you think. Expect a thunderstorm or two, a smoke day if the regional fire season is bad, and at least one evening when the lake goes flat and gold and nobody says anything for a while.

• Reserve cabins and campsites well ahead; September is easier
• Fuel at Coolin and Nordman; groceries in Priest River
• Check Forest Service fire restrictions before campfires
• Bear-aware food storage everywhere, especially on the islands
• Cell service is unreliable; download maps before you arrive